By far the largest and most colourful Durbar in Africa now takes place in Kano, northern Nigeria. Upwards of 1,500 Hausa horsemen in brilliant robes and indigo turbans gather from all corners of the State twice a year in a spectacular parade. Their horses are equally imposing, draped in ornate ceremonial regalia.
Nigeria, Kano State, Kano. The Emir of Kano resplendent in brilliant green robes attends a Durbar parade riding on a white camel. A servant holds up a large umbrella to shade him from the sun while two others fan him with ostrich feathers.
The three-day event is a truly magnificent extravaganza. Apart from its historical and cultural importance, it also serves as a catalyst to foster peace and unify the people and their leader, the Emir of Kano. He is the traditional religious head, and years ago the ruler, of more than 12 million Hausa Muslims. The present Emir, HRH Muhammad Sanusi II, is the 14th Emir of Kano from his particular dynasty.
Nigeria, Kano State, Kano. A Hausa man carries a live crocodile over one shoulder during a Durbar celebration. He does this as sign of his fearlessness.
Nigeria, Kano State, Kano. Two young Hausa boys in Islamic dress.
Nigeria, Kano State, Kano. A Hausa youth with a scorpion on his nose during a Durbar celebration. He displays it as sign of his fearlessness.
The procession in the late afternoon of the second day is a highlight. Every group of splendidly costumed horsemen is led by a person of royal lineage or a district or village head. The men of royal lineage can easily be identified by the ‘ears’ of material sticking out from the tops of their turbans. They proudly parade past the assembled dignitaries in an anti-clockwise direction amidst singing, shouting and drumming.
Nigeria, Kano State, Kano. An elegant Hausa man in flowing robes and indigo turban rides his horse during a Durbar celebration.
Nigeria, Kano State, Kano. Hausa men dressed in bright-coloured purple flowing robes and indigo turbans participate in a Durbar parade. Their fine horses are equally impressive, adorned with ornate ceremonial regalia.
Nigeria, Kano State, Kano. A Hausa man in fine traditional attire with an elaborate multi-coloured turban.
The arrival of the Emir towards the end of the procession is announced by a fanfare sounded on long trumpets. The Emir, resplendent in fine robes, is mounted on a white camel accompanied by an entourage of palace guards. A servant holds up a large parasol to shade him from the sun while two others walk either side of him holding circular ostrich-feather fans. The royal drummers, also mounted on camels, follow close behind. Horsemen then gallop up to the Emir to demonstrate their riding skills and pay him their respects. It is the climax to a glorious day of tradition and pageantry.
Nigeria, Kano State, Kano. The Emir of Kano mounted on a white horse pauses beside a traditionally decorated wall at his palace with a group of well-dressed followers in attendance.
Nigeria, Kano State, Kano. A Hausa horse adorned in ornate regalia.
It’s possibly the least visited and least known country in Europe – many people have not even heard of this country or think it’s just a province of it’s much larger neighbour, and most cannot place it on a map. Yet it’s 60% bigger than England and just a few hours flight away, a landlocked country which, according to some calculations, is the geographic centre of Europe. I am talking about Belarus! And I’m visiting it’s capital Minsk.
As a professional travel photographer, I am constantly faced with unpredictable challenges: un- wanted cranes, historical buildings swaddled in scaffolding, hordes of tourists and, above all, inclement weather.
I’ve never been a beach guy. So how did I end up photographing in the Caribbean?
The lifeblood of being a photographer is to keep challenging yourself. As a travel photographer I am always working out how to creatively depict a vast and diverse range Continue reading →
I like to create an image rather than just take one. The position and placement of a subject is paramount and normally requires good direction and choreography. I find that Continue reading →
Crisp December air gives perfect views of gorgeous snow-capped mountains reflected in the mirror-still surface of Derwentwater; the timeless Stone Circle at Castlerigg; frosty valleys contrast with russet bracken-covered hillsides; clinker-built rowing boats sit on quiet lake shores. Alan Copson’s autumn and winter forays into some of the most beautiful landscapes of England have produced some wonderful and timeless images.
Certainly the country is in the news and the opportunity to photograph in a place that is both fascinating and notorious (at least in the press) was the draw.
Iran, Central Iran, Esfahan, Bazar-e Bozorg market, interior
What preparations were involved in making the trip?
I had to travel as part of a small group to maintain tourist status; getting permission for individual travel, especially for me, a US citizen would have been difficult. I nearly always travel alone so doing the group thing was problematic at first. Lots of lectures about history during the day during time that could have been better used to photograph. I eventually convinced our minder that I was very enthusiastic about being there, had no issues with their culture, and that I would not do something foolish like get lost. After a few days I was given a ‘long leash’ to go off on my own. Biggest issue though was securing an Iranian visa. This involved applying at least 4 months in advance, booking flights and the ‘tour’ and then waiting until about a week before leaving for the confirmation from the Iranian government. Once I got that my passport had to be sent to the Pakistani embassy in Washington who processes the visa for Iran, who have no diplomatic presence in the USA. A knuckle biter for sure!
Iran, Central Iran, Kashan, Khan-e Boroujerdi, traditional carpet merchant’s house, ornate plasterwork
Iran, Central Iran, Esfahan, Naqsh-e Jahan Imam Square, Royal Mosque, Muslim cleric
Iran, Central Iran, Esfahan, Naqsh-e Jahan Imam Square, Royal Mosque, interior mosaic
What were the major challenges you faced?
Once there, no real obstacles. It was easy to walk around Tehran. I even hired an English-speaking driver through the young couple who picked me up at the airport upon my arrival who was the nicest guy. We talked about the latest ‘Mad Max’ movie an afterwards I told him about the things I needed to visit and off we went in his Peugeot. At the end of my tour I walked all over Tehran again and used the subway as well; very cheap, very clean and very good. No problems and great people!
Did you have a favourite moment or place in your travels in Iran?
Lots of them! In Shiraz, my group went to look at carpets so I broke away and walked up to the hills. Great walking past tons of wonderful coffee shops with young Iranians hanging out in separate groups for young guys and young women. Went to the roof of the Shiraz Hotel, (see #IR01213 below) lovely vista, great coffee and yummy cakes. But the absolute best was seeing how despite the religious prohibition on casual dating and any contact between the sexes, there was a lot of flirting going on! Reaffirms my belief in human nature and that the official version of things is often not entirely correct!
Iran, Central Iran, Shiraz, elevated city skyline from the north
Did anything surprise you?
I’ve travelled in quite a few Middle Eastern countries and Iran’s infrastructure was very impressive. Roads were great, plenty of traffic, good drivers and most of the cities looked to be in good shape. They were nearly all built by the locals (vs places like Dubai that are certainly amazing but feature all ‘imported’ construction). Often times I felt like I was in California, though in a California with lots and lots of women in kerchiefs and black cover-ups! As one goes up the hills in Tehran the neighbourhoods get quite wealthy. I went into a car showroom where, despite the embargo, one could buy a new BMW M6 in gold metallic with bright red seats, fresh off the boat, if one had the cash!
What was your favourite image and is there a story behind it?
#IR01187- talked with these guys who were fooling around with a computer at a road rest stop in the middle of nowhere. Funny and welcoming, lots of selfies and laughs!
#IR01117- loved walking in the Tehran mountains in a place called the Roof of Iran. The city spreads out like Los Angeles and people are just hanging out watching the night fall.
#IR01166- took lots of pictures at the bus station in Kerman, men in the front of the bus, women in the back marked in black as is their clothing! Ok, it’s not entirely a ‘kumbaya’ world for women, but we know this!
Do you have any advice for others thinking of visiting Iran (not necessarily photographers)?
It’s a very interesting a varied country. Great people, you will make friends and enjoy tasty food so you will not starve. Biggest obstacles are politics but there is a lot of that going around. Do your homework, find a tour operator that you can trust and don’t sweat the visa thing too much and all will be well!
As the Olympics have shown, Rio is a city with astonishingly beautiful views. Before the games began I headed there to capture as many of them as I could.
Photographer: Jacopo Rigotti / ClickAlps – Italian wildlife photographer. Born 02 Jan 1990.
The photograph: This image was captured by patiently spending several days following the subject, then making tests shots, and persisting through trial and error and trying again and again until the successful image was achieved. Continue reading →
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